Food

Delectable Delights

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By Beverly Levitt; photos by Julie Siegel Photography

Here come the holidays and the age-old question: What can I give this year that's different from all other years?

Of course it's wonderful to send trinkets from Tiffany's or bouquets of red roses from F.T.S. Or even six or 12 exquisite goblets of Baccarat crystal — be still my heart! But how about giving a little of yourself this year — surprising friends and family with gifts from your kitchen that you're sure they'll love? How can you be sure? Because they're always asking you for the recipes!

Maybe it's your special brownies — the ones you've perfected over the years until you got them just right. Or your special chutney, jalapeno jelly or even the barbecue sauce you throw together at the last minute that friends are always after you to bottle. Or, let me tell you what I do:

A few Chanukahs ago, my work was quiet and my friend was sick and unable to go out. I wracked my brain for some way to brighten her holiday, then arrived at her door with a gorgeous wicker basket filled with containers of food as diverse as mousse de chocolat, pate, pesto sauce, blueberry muffins, candied walnuts, my special salad dressing and New England candied cranberries. I also slipped in baby pumpernickel slices for the pate, fresh angel hair pasta for the pesto, whipped butter for the muffins as well as a bottle of my favorite wine this time of year — Beaujolais Nouveau.

I put everything into containers which were not only reusable, but each one a special treasure. I'm always going to tag sales and over the years have collected odd dishes, cups and bowls of Staffordshire, carnival glass and Limoges bought for a fraction of their value. I also collect antique wine, oil and vinegar bottles and even interesting beer bottles so that my salad dressing, herbed oil and vinegars can be presented in all their glory.

The most rewarding part was watching her face as she opened each gift. She had always raved about my salad dressing and I knew she loved pesto. And the mousse — she ate that before she got through opening the rest of the colorfully wrapped packages. I included the cranberries because she had a house on Cape Cod.

I wanted to add a little something new to the old, so I hit the department stores and found gorgeous holiday dishes and mugs to add to the mix. Because it was so close to the holidays, they were on sale.

Since that gift was so much fun to give and so graciously received, I have turned gift baskets into a yearly event. I start shopping for antique dishes and unusually shaped baskets in January and by December my cupboards are bulging. Sometimes I spray the baskets with bright paint. Other times I leave the wicker au naturale.

I line the baskets with festive kitchen towels, pot holders, aprons, doilies or bright pieces of fabric, and handwrite each recipe and tie it to the dish with pretty ribbons. Sometimes I add unusual utensils, exotic teas and spices, olives, jams or granola. For the children I give candied popcorn or chocolate-covered pretzels or Chanukah cookies. After I'm finished, I wrap the whole present in cellophane.

I think these baskets rival those in any catalogue. But they are more appreciated because of the love and thoughtfulness that go with them. Besides, wouldn't you rather spend time preparing holiday gifts in your cozy kitchen, accompanied by Mandy Patinkin, Bob Dylan or Paul Simon on the stereo (their CDs would be great additions to the baskets) and the fireplace crackling, than being pushed and shoved at the mall? If I'm going to be trampled, I'd prefer to have it done at The Tournament of Roses Parade in Pasadena. There, at least, it would be for a worthwhile cause.

Beverly Levitt is a freelance writer in Los Angeles.

SUPERB SALAD DRESSING

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 2 plump garlic cloves, pressed
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
• 1 teaspoon fresh basil, minced
• 2 teaspoons fresh parsley, minced
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1 teaspoon Herbes de Provence
• Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients in a jar, shake vigorously. Transfer to antique bottle.

ROSEMARY OR TARRAGON VINEGAR

• 1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 1 large rosemary leaf or 1 large tarragon sprig
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole (optional)
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

Combine all ingredients and put into beautiful antique bottle with a tight-fighting cork or cap. Let sit at least 3 weeks.

CHOCOLATE CHANUKAH GELT

• 16 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted

Melt chocolate on top of double boiler. Using a teaspoon, spoon coin-size dollops of melted chocolate onto wax-paper-lined baking sheets. Refrigerate and set. Wrap in silver or gold foil and store in refrigerator until hardened.

MOUSSE DE CHOCOLAT PARISIAN

• 3 egg whites, whipped until stiff
• 1 1/2 pints heavy cream, whipped
• 3 squares sweetened chocolate
• 3 squares unsweetened chocolate
• 3/4 cup powdered sugar
• 10 tablespoons water

Fold egg whites into whipped cream and refrigerate. Put chocolate squares and 4 tablespoons water into top of a double boiler and melt them, stirring occasionally. When mixture is smooth, add sugar, remaining water and bring to boil, stirring constantly. Refrigerate. When chocolate mixture is chilled, fold in the whipped cream. Pour into small individual pots, antique demitasse or tea cups, or glass bowls. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours.

BEST BLUEBERRY MUFFINS

• Butter as needed
• 2 cups unbleached flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 cup butter
• 3/4 cup brown sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter muffin tins. Sift together dry ingredients. Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add orange juice, zest and eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition. Add creamed mixture to dry ingredients, mixing well. Fold in blueberries, vanilla extract and walnuts. Pour mixture into prepared muffin tins. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the middle comes out clean. Cool in tins for 10 minutes, then on rack.

CANDIED WALNUTS OR PECANS

• 1 tablespoon unbeaten egg white
• 2 cups walnut or pecan halves
• 1/2 cup white sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Mix unbeaten egg white with nut meats until all are coated and sticky. Combine sugar, cinnamon and vanilla. Sprinkle over nuts and stir until nuts are well coated. Spread on ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 20 minutes. Loosen from cookie sheet and cool. Store in covered container.

PRETZELS

• 80 pretzels, the best tasting, freshest you can find
• 4 cups semisweet chocolate pieces
• 1/2 cup light corn syrup
• 1 1/3 cups milk
• 2 tablespoons butter

Warm pretzels in a very low (200 degrees) oven for 20 minutes. They should be warmed but not darkened in color. While pretzels are heating, combine chocolate pieces, corn syrup, milk and butter in a small saucepan. Stir constantly over low heat until chocolate melts. Place pretzels on wire rack over wax paper or aluminum foil. Carefully spoon glaze over warm pretzels. Cool.

NEW ENGLAND CANDIED CRANBERRIES

• 2 cups large, fresh cranberries
• 1 1/2 cups sugar

Spread cranberries in a liberally buttered baking dish. Sprinkle them with sugar; cover the dish tightly. Bake at 325 degrees for one hour. When cooled and completely dry, cranberries are bright red and shimmering — like candied cherries. Fill antique biscuit modern glass, or stone jars to overflowing. We recommend jars with rubber rings so they can be sealed airtight. Store in a cool, dark dry place until ready to use.

HOLIDAY PATE

• 6 cups water
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/2 cup yellow onion, finely minced
• 1/2 cup celery tops
• 1/4 cup parsley, finely minced
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 dozen whole peppercorns
• 1 pound chicken or duck livers
• 1/2 cup mushrooms, sliced
• 3 plump garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup shallots
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup olive oil or rendered fat from liver
• Pinch of cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon allspice
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
• 2 hard boiled eggs
• 1/4 cup shelled walnuts, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup good brandy

Bring water to boil, add bay leaves, onions, celery tops, parsley, salt, thyme and peppercorns, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add livers; simmer gently for 10 minutes longer.

Drain livers, reserving liquid from stock. Discard bay leaves, celery tops and peppercorns. In a saucepan, sautŽ mushrooms, garlic and shallots in olive oil or rendered fat. Add cayenne, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, salt and pepper, and cook 5 to 7 minutes, until vegetables are golden and flavors are blended. Place livers in the bowl of a food processor bowl fitted with a steel blade. Add vegetable mixture, Dijon mustard, parsley, eggs, walnuts and brandy. Process until well blended and very smooth. If more liquid is needed, add liver stock. Transfer pate to small bowls and refrigerate for 4 to 5 hours. Allow it to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.

PESTO WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

This recipe is delicious with or without the tomatoes. They just make it a bit more special.

• 3 cups fresh basil leaves, stems removed
• 2 large cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced
• 1/4 cup pine nuts
• 1/4 cup walnuts
• 3/4 cup fresh chopped parsley
• 1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup sun-dried tomatoes, soaked in hot water for 20 minutes,
• then chopped (optional)

Combine all ingredients except tomatoes in blender on low, then medium speed until it is worked into a smooth paste. Remove to bowl. Add sun-dried tomatoes.

MOLASSES CORN

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/2 cup molasses
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 6 cups popped corn
• 1 1/2 cups pecans, cashews and almonds, whole (optional)
• 1 cup dried apples, apricots or pineapple, sliced (optional)
• 1 cup dark or milk chocolate, broken into pieces (optional)

Melt butter on low flame, stir molasses and sugar into butter. Cook until sugar dissolves and mix starts to boil. Cover and cook for 3 minutes. Uncover and cook — without stirring — until syrup nears the hard-crack stage, 290 degrees on the candy thermometer.

Remove from heat. Mix nuts, fruit or chocolate to popped corn. Pour syrup over mixture immediately, making sure to cover every kernel.

For popcorn balls: Wait until the mixture is cool enough to handle, then, with lightly buttered fingers, form into a ball.

For sculptures: Begin sculpting freeform wreaths, trees or reindeer or pack tightly into an oiled mold.

For chunks of popcorn: Bake in a shallow pan at 250 degrees for one hour, stirring every 15 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely. Then crack off chunks and store in a tightly covered metal container.

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